Tile Work
Precision tile work — set right, grouted right, sealed right.
Precision tile work — set right, grouted right, sealed right.
From kitchen floors to shower surrounds, we deliver tile installations that are flat, waterproof, and built to last. Every joint is consistent, every edge is clean.
Why Tile Substrate Prep Determines Everything
Tile does not flex. When the surface underneath it moves, tiles crack and grout fails. That is why 90% of tile failures are substrate failures — not product defects. Proper subfloor preparation and leveling is the foundation of every lasting tile installation.
On concrete slabs in Temecula, Murrieta, and Menifee, we check for cracks, flatness, and moisture before setting a single tile. Crack isolation membrane goes over any existing cracks to prevent them from telegraphing through. Self-leveling compound corrects low spots and brings the surface to the flatness tolerance required for large-format tile (1/8-inch over 10 feet).
In showers, we install Schluter Kerdi waterproofing membrane or RedGard liquid membrane over cement backer board. The membrane — not the tile or the grout — is what keeps water out of your wall cavity.
Large-Format Tile: What Most Installers Get Wrong
Large-format tile — anything over 15 inches on one side — requires different techniques than standard tile. The tile must be back-buttered and set with a directional trowel pattern. The substrate must be within 1/8-inch flatness over 10 feet. And the tile must be leveled with a clip-and-wedge system to prevent lippage between adjacent tiles.
We use Raimondi leveling clips on every large-format installation. The result is a perfectly flat surface with no lippage — the kind of finish you see in high-end showrooms. Without leveling clips, even a skilled setter will produce noticeable height differences at tile joints, especially with rectified porcelain.
Most complaints about tile work — uneven tiles, cracked grout, hollow-sounding tiles — trace back to skipping these steps. If you are upgrading from old tile, our tile removal team grinds the slab clean before new material goes down.
Shower Tile Installation Done Right
A shower surround has to be waterproof, not just water-resistant. Grout and tile are not waterproof by themselves — the waterproofing happens at the membrane layer behind the tile. This is especially important in full bathroom remodels where the entire wet area is being rebuilt.
We install Schluter Kerdi or Laticrete HydroBan over cement backer board on every shower project. Pre-formed corners, curb dams, and drain connections are sealed and flood-tested before a single tile goes up.
Shower niches are framed with Kerdi-Board and waterproofed as a continuous unit. Soap ledges get a proper slope for drainage. Curbs are tiled on all three sides with bullnose or Schluter edge profiles. These details are what separate a shower that lasts 20 years from one that develops mold behind the tile in 3. After tile is set, we finish with trim and edge detailing for a polished final look.